36 Hours in Athens
This week, Mollie's younger sister Laura and two friends visited Athens and stayed with me. I always love having guests. Getting to show someone around the city makes it sink in that I really live here, and seeing the city through fresh eyes reminds me of what's so exciting about Athens.
Now that I've had my fair share of guests, I've developed somewhat of a routine for taking people around the city. Since I'm a big fan of The New York Times'"36 hours in..." feature, I figured why not give their format a shot? (Note to NYT Editors: I will write for peanuts. Call me.)
Friday
5 p.m.
1) HISTORY FOR FREE
It's an easy straight-shot on the metro from the airport to Monastiraki Station. If you've got bags, there are big coin-operated lockers where you can leave your stuff while you explore downtown. Walking out of Monastiraki station (which means "little monastery") you catch your first glimpse of the Acropolis. Head towards it, taking note of Hadrian's Library on your left. No need to pay the entrance fee, you can see everything from outside. Keep walking straight and you'll hit the Roman Agora, a great spot for pictures and another site where you can see it all from the outside. Take a left and head towards the Tower of the Winds, one of the most beautiful ancient sites and evidence of how advanced Athenian science was (the tower included a primitive barometer and could be used to predict the weather).
6 p.m.
2) BEAUTIFUL BOTTLES
Walk along bustling Adrianou street, but don't buy any of the tacky tourist t-shirts or fake ancient pottery. Instead, take a left at Kydatheneon street and head into Bretto's, a bar that's been serving up homemade liqueurs and ouzo for over a hundred years. Bretto's, with its striking backlit wall of colorful glass bottles is in every tourist guidebook but it's still a great spot to get a drink. Try the rakomelo, a Greek moonshine that's boiled with honey, or masticha liqueur for two flavors you're not going to get anywhere else.
8 p.m.
3) ATHENIAN WOLVES
It's still far too early for dinner in late-night Athens, so build up your appetite by taking a walk up Lykavittos Hill. Lykavittos literally means "Hill of the Wolves" because in ancient times, the city was much smaller and this was wilderness, complete with ferocious beasts. Now, instead of feral wolves you'll spot residents of the ritzy Kolonaki neighborhood. To get to the top, skip the tram ride, it's an over-priced tourist trap with no view, and instead walk up the many free trails. Stop along the way to admire the view over the city, but the real prize is at the top where you can see across Athens in all directions. Looking down on the Acropolis, you can see the lights of boats on the Aegean Sea in the background.
10 p.m.
4) DINNER AT LAST
Now that it's finally time for dinner (although an early one by Athenian standards) head to any one of Athens' many neighborhood tavernas. Don't bother looking at the menu, just ask what they have tonight. Don't forget to order house wine to wash it down. My favorite taverna is Klimataria, on a shady square in the Neo Psychiko neighborhood.
Saturday
10:30 a.m.
5) FRESH FRUIT WITH A SONG
There's no better way to start off a day then by mingling with local residents at a laiki (farmer's market). The vendors shout, sing and generally try to attract as much attention as possible to themselves and their wares. "Beautiful tomatoes, ladies, beautiful tomatoes!" "Sweet, delicious cherries! Get 'em before they're gone!" Feel free to pick and choose among the well-priced produce. If you ask nicely you'll almost certainly be given free samples as well. Stock up on some of those fresh cherries, peaches and apricots or if you're looking for something more substantial, fix yourself the freshest salad around to accompany some grilled pork souvlaki.
1:30 p.m.
6) LIMNI VOULIAGMENIS
No matter what time of year you visit Athens, you'll find old timers enjoying the supposedly therapeutic waters of this thermal lake. There are lounge chairs and a cafe for your use, but if you really want to fit in, bring a bathrobe. The waters aren't hot, per se, but they're warm enough to swim in year round.
8 p.m.
7) TRY TO SAY THAT THREE TIMES FAST
You can't leave Athens without visiting an ouzomezedopoleio, both for its tongue-twister name and for the incredible selection of dishes. These smaller, informal restaurants offer a selection of small plates to go along with ouzo, or your drink of choice. Think tapas Greek style. Go with friends, don't be afraid to experiment and taste all the best that Greek cuisine has to offer.
Midnight
8) THE GREEK BLUES
Rembetiki Istoria, with its low prices and high quality music is one of the best spots to sample traditional Greek rembetika music. With its healthy focus on heartbreak, wine and women, you can be sure to get an insight into the Greek psyche. If you stick around until 2 a.m. there's a good chance you'll get to try your hand at Greek dancing (or at least watch others' boozy attempts).
Sunday
9:30 a.m.
9) THE ACROPOLIS
You didn't think you could leave Athens without visiting the main attraction, did you? Walk off your headache from last night's dancing on the most well-known site in Greece. Take the requisite tourist shots of the Parthenon and admire the view over the city. If you're visiting in the low-season, Sundays at the Acropolis are free.
11:00 a.m.
2) BEAUTIFUL BOTTLES
Walk along bustling Adrianou street, but don't buy any of the tacky tourist t-shirts or fake ancient pottery. Instead, take a left at Kydatheneon street and head into Bretto's, a bar that's been serving up homemade liqueurs and ouzo for over a hundred years. Bretto's, with its striking backlit wall of colorful glass bottles is in every tourist guidebook but it's still a great spot to get a drink. Try the rakomelo, a Greek moonshine that's boiled with honey, or masticha liqueur for two flavors you're not going to get anywhere else.
8 p.m.
3) ATHENIAN WOLVES
It's still far too early for dinner in late-night Athens, so build up your appetite by taking a walk up Lykavittos Hill. Lykavittos literally means "Hill of the Wolves" because in ancient times, the city was much smaller and this was wilderness, complete with ferocious beasts. Now, instead of feral wolves you'll spot residents of the ritzy Kolonaki neighborhood. To get to the top, skip the tram ride, it's an over-priced tourist trap with no view, and instead walk up the many free trails. Stop along the way to admire the view over the city, but the real prize is at the top where you can see across Athens in all directions. Looking down on the Acropolis, you can see the lights of boats on the Aegean Sea in the background.
10 p.m.
4) DINNER AT LAST
Now that it's finally time for dinner (although an early one by Athenian standards) head to any one of Athens' many neighborhood tavernas. Don't bother looking at the menu, just ask what they have tonight. Don't forget to order house wine to wash it down. My favorite taverna is Klimataria, on a shady square in the Neo Psychiko neighborhood.
Saturday
10:30 a.m.
5) FRESH FRUIT WITH A SONG
There's no better way to start off a day then by mingling with local residents at a laiki (farmer's market). The vendors shout, sing and generally try to attract as much attention as possible to themselves and their wares. "Beautiful tomatoes, ladies, beautiful tomatoes!" "Sweet, delicious cherries! Get 'em before they're gone!" Feel free to pick and choose among the well-priced produce. If you ask nicely you'll almost certainly be given free samples as well. Stock up on some of those fresh cherries, peaches and apricots or if you're looking for something more substantial, fix yourself the freshest salad around to accompany some grilled pork souvlaki.
1:30 p.m.
6) LIMNI VOULIAGMENIS
No matter what time of year you visit Athens, you'll find old timers enjoying the supposedly therapeutic waters of this thermal lake. There are lounge chairs and a cafe for your use, but if you really want to fit in, bring a bathrobe. The waters aren't hot, per se, but they're warm enough to swim in year round.
8 p.m.
7) TRY TO SAY THAT THREE TIMES FAST
You can't leave Athens without visiting an ouzomezedopoleio, both for its tongue-twister name and for the incredible selection of dishes. These smaller, informal restaurants offer a selection of small plates to go along with ouzo, or your drink of choice. Think tapas Greek style. Go with friends, don't be afraid to experiment and taste all the best that Greek cuisine has to offer.
Midnight
8) THE GREEK BLUES
Rembetiki Istoria, with its low prices and high quality music is one of the best spots to sample traditional Greek rembetika music. With its healthy focus on heartbreak, wine and women, you can be sure to get an insight into the Greek psyche. If you stick around until 2 a.m. there's a good chance you'll get to try your hand at Greek dancing (or at least watch others' boozy attempts).
Sunday
9:30 a.m.
9) THE ACROPOLIS
You didn't think you could leave Athens without visiting the main attraction, did you? Walk off your headache from last night's dancing on the most well-known site in Greece. Take the requisite tourist shots of the Parthenon and admire the view over the city. If you're visiting in the low-season, Sundays at the Acropolis are free.
11:00 a.m.
10) RELAXING IN THE GARDENS
Cool down from the sun-exposed Acropolis in the shady National Gardens. Grab a koulouri (a hoop of bread that's the Greek answer to a sesame bagel) and then a cold cappuccino freddo at the outdoor cafe. Bring a book or a friend.
Cool down from the sun-exposed Acropolis in the shady National Gardens. Grab a koulouri (a hoop of bread that's the Greek answer to a sesame bagel) and then a cold cappuccino freddo at the outdoor cafe. Bring a book or a friend.
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2 comments:
uh, bookmarked?
thanks, this all sounds wonderful and we will take your advice-NYT's, hope they call you :)
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